What is a peptide?
A peptide is a compound formed by the contraction of amino acids. It is formed by the removal of a water molecule from the -NH of one amino acid molecule and the -COOH of another amino acid, creating a -CH-NH linkage. Depending on the number of amino acids, it is referred to as dipeptide, tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, etc. Its molecular size is between small molecular compounds (MW<500) and proteins (MW>10,000), possessing low molecular weight, easy absorption, and biological activities such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.
The Development History of Peptides
1922: Humans first used insulin extracted from animal pancreas to treat Type I diabetes. 1954: Dr. Vincent du Vigneaud, an American biochemist, achieved the chemical synthesis of peptide drugs for the first time. 1963: Dr. Robert Bruce Merrifield, an American biochemist, invented the solid-phase peptide synthesis method, which opened a new chapter in the artificial synthesis of peptides. 1980: The emergence of recombinant technology made it possible to produce larger molecular peptides. By the late 1980s: The first copper peptide (GHK-Cu) with wound healing therapeutic activity was included in skincare products; currently, the peptide market is continuously expanding and developing.
Classification of peptides
According to the mechanism of action, it can be divided into:
Signal peptides:
A type of peptide that can stimulate skin fibroblasts, increasing the production of collagen and elastin fibers. As a messenger, it triggers fibroblasts to synthesize collagen. For example, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a peptide derived from elastin that binds to cytoplasmic fibroblast receptors.
Carrier peptides:
Responsible for transporting and stabilizing oligoelements such as copper and manganese, bringing them to the skin and allowing epithelial cells to absorb them. Additionally, these peptides can stimulate the action of key enzymes.
Neurotransmitter inhibitory peptides:
Developed to mimic botulinum toxin, preventing the release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction.Such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Pentapeptide-18, etc.
Peptides in cosmetics：
In the 1980s, the first peptide was added to skincare products, and since 2000, they have increasingly been used for skin anti-aging. Currently, many well-known brands have launched peptide cosmetics, such as Olay, Estée Lauder, SK-II, etc. Some internal factors (like chronological aging) and external factors (like environmental pollution and photoaging) are related to skin aging. These internal and external factors lead to alterations in the dermal extracellular matrix, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, antimicrobial functions, skin barrier function, oxidative stress, and inflammation processes. This can then cause dermatitis, acne, eczema, vasculitis, psoriasis, and skin cancer.
Bioactive peptides play an important role in cosmetics, possessing activities that inhibit skin enzymes, are antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory, thereby improving skin health and maintaining skin stability.
Post time: 2025-09-15